PODCAST:Drum Tower
TITLE:Drum Tower picks: Chinese burgers
DATE:2024-01-23 00:00:00
URL:
MODEL:gpt-4-gizmo
The article from The Economist, featured on the "Drum Tower" podcast dated January 23, 2024, showcases the growing trend of Chinese-style burgers in China, led by the fast-food chain Tostian. This new culinary trend merges traditional Chinese flavors and ingredients with the Western concept of burgers. Tostian's offerings include unconventional fillings like roast duck, fish fragrant shredded pork, and mappo tofu, instead of the typical beef patty. The buns are hand-rolled, using traditional pastry-making techniques, giving a unique twist to the standard burger.
Tostian's growth has been remarkable, with the chain adding nearly 3,500 stores in one year, totaling around 6,700 outlets across China. This expansion surpasses McDonald's, which has about 6,000 stores in China, although it still lags behind KFC's 11,000 and the local brand Wallace's 18,000 outlets. KFC and McDonald's introduced burgers to China when the first KFC opened in Beijing in 1987. Over time, as incomes rose, fast food became more affordable for the wider population.
A key to Tostian's success is its competitive pricing, significantly lower than Western fast-food chains. Founded in 2012, Tostian initially focused on pizzas and introduced burgers in 2017. The company claims to have created the Chinese hamburger, using patriotic marketing that has resonated well with consumers. In 2021, Tostian received an investment of 120 million yuan ($19 million) from Chinese venture capital firms. The company initially targeted smaller cities with less competition and is now expanding into larger cities like Guangzhou and Shanghai.
This trend of Chinese burgers is part of a broader movement called "Xin Chaoxi" or "New Chinese Style," where companies incorporate traditional Chinese cultural elements into their products and branding. This strategy extends to various items, including coffee and fried chicken, and taps into the nationalist sentiments of younger consumers. However, the success of this marketing approach is not guaranteed, as evidenced by the struggles of some tea houses and steamed bun vendors, despite their deep roots in Chinese history. Some attempts, like Chinese-style ice cream, have failed to gain traction, suggesting that the label can sometimes appear as a mere gimmick.
Despite mixed results in other sectors, Tostian's affordable pricing and innovative approach have made Chinese-style burgers a notable culinary trend in China, demonstrating the potential for traditional flavors to redefine fast food.
